Thursday, October 27, 2011

Digby... a self portrait

The pop tarts are clearly in this box. I know it.

Sherman!!

Sherman is boring. I will eat this box.

Oh hello again Sherman!


Nom nom.

If I look cute and innocent, maybeee someone will feed me?

No? Ok, I'll go back to opening this box by myself now. That's all!

Tuesday, October 25, 2011

Grooming Tip Tuesday - Bathing and Hot toweling

Grooming Tip Tuesday - Bathing and Hot toweling



Bathing is useful in several situations. Getting ready for a show or after coming in from the field when the horse is extra dirty are just two reasons. Before I start discussing the WHY and HOWs of bathing, I need to note that if you give your horse a bath frequently it will dry your horses coat out and make him more dull, rather than shiny and clean. There is no substitute for a good, thorough grooming.

WHY bathe?
  • Extra clean for showing
  • Good when first starting to groom a horse to get rid of all the nasty scurf and dander that has built up on the coat
  • Remove stains and dirty spots on coat, especially on a light horse
TOOLS needed
  • Buckets of warm water
  • Shampoo of your choice (use horse shampoo, not people shampoo)
  • Body sponge
  • Rubber curry comb (or jelly scrubber)
  • Sweat scraper
  • Towels or cooler if appropriate
HOW to bathe
  • It's easiest to rinse horse off with hose, but if you don't have access to a hose with warm water, sponge off entire body getting the horse throughly damp. Start at the hooves then work your way up to the legs then body. I start at the front of the horse as well and work back to the hindquarters.
  • Don't forget to wet the mane and tail!
  • Squirt a bit of shampoo into your bucket and make sudsy. Sponge this over the horse. Don't be afraid to use a lot. The horse should be pretty sudsy. 
  • Use the curry comb or jelly scrubber to loose up dirt and work shampoo into a lather
  • When shampooing the mane and tail, I tend to use my fingers because I've found that works best. Hey, it works on our hair doesn't it? Pay attention to the base of the tail (super dandruff-y) and the base of the mane. Don't apply conditioner to the mane or tail if they are going to be braided in the near future. It doesn't end well!
  • Rinse before moving on to a different section of the horse. It should feel super clean and free of shampoo. You can either rinse with a hose or by squeezing clean water onto horse with a sponge
  • Shampoo left on the coat is never a good thing. It makes horses itchy and leaves them sticky, gross and often looking less shiny then when you started. Not ideal.
  • When shampooing the horses face, use as little as soap as possible. Most horses don't like this and I've found baby wipes or hot toweling works better. If your horse allows you to bathe its face, then go right ahead. Just proceed with caution.
  • White/light coats should use a shampoo afterwards like Quik Silver. Apply full strength and let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Rinse afterwards. Repeat as necessary.
  • Make sure you use a sweat scraper afterwards to remove all excess water. Use a dry sponge or towels to remove water from legs and face.
  • If it's cool out, cover horse in a cooler unless they're totally dry. 
  • Don't leave unattended. They WILL ROLL! :)

Hot Toweling

Hot toweling an be used in cold weather when bathing isn't an option or if you're aren't allowed to give a horse a bath for whatever reason. It works really well on getting up the dirt and scurf from those problem areas like the mane, head and croup. You need a bucket of very hot water (the hotter the better!), rubber gloves if you prefer to not burn your hands and a large towel. If you have gloves, put them on first. Dunk the towel into the bucket full of hot water and wring it out until it's almost dry. Rub the towel with one hand into the roots of the coat. The towel should be dry enough to not wet the hair but bring up all the dirt. Continue to move towel around in your hand to clean spots. When the towel gets cooler, place it in the bucket again and repeat. You can hot towel any part of the horses body as long as they are comfortable with you touching it.


If you have any questions, comments or a suggestion for a grooming tip tuesday post, please comment and let me know! :)

Sunday, October 16, 2011

*Crickets chirping*

Not much on the Digby front (is there ever?), besides the fact that my search for a field is going pretty poorly. Who knew that finding a field with four solid fences and a competent owner would be so difficult? If anyone knows of any, or even has a number, please let me know!

In other news, I changed the background so that when it's winter, we can all enjoy some green grass! :)

Wednesday, October 12, 2011

Grooming Tip Tuesday - White coronets, socks and stocking! Oh my!

(Apparently, the "auto post" option that I tried yesterday did not work... oops.)

White coronets, socks and stockings! Oh My!


This week it's all about the down and dirty on getting those whites CLEAN. My first step is always to shampoo them. I don't need to use a blueing shampoo, like Quik Silver, the first time around. I lather them up and scrub, scrub, scrub. If they're covered in super gross mud and dirt, they simply aren't going to get sparkling white. The next step is to rinse, let dry and then clip. I tend to use a 10 blade but you can also use a smaller blade, like a 15, if you prefer the closer clip. Be careful with a smaller blade that you don't leave clip lines! It's pretty easy to do if you're using anything above a 10 blade. I clip the entire white, whether this is just around the coronet or all the way up to the knees. After clipping, it will be much easier to keep those whites white! For basis maintenance, just keep up to date on shampooing when they get gross so the whites don't have the chance to stain in the first place.

For a show or any other important event that requires lots of flashy whites, I do the same first steps (shampoo, let dry, then clip) a day or two ahead of time. The day before the event, I shampoo with a blueing shampoo like Quik Silver. Make sure you don't dilute Quik Silver. Apply directly to the white and scrub. It needs to sit for about 5 minutes. If it sits too long, it has the chance of staining the white purple. Eek! But if it doesn't sit long enough, it doesn't get as white. After shampooing and washing out the shampoo, I do one of two things. If it's only a tiny coronet on front leg or on a generally clean horse, I usually just spray some ShowSheen to help repel stains and dust and call it a day. If it's a sock or a stocking, I apply baby powder or corn starch while the leg is still wet from the shampooing. Pack as much in the white as you can! Honestly. You almost can't use too much! I don't apply ShowSheen after the baby powder but that's just me. On the morning of the big day, brush out any baby powder/corn starch that is still in the white marking and admire. I usually apply ShowSheen on the white marking after knocking out the baby powder/corn starch just to be safe but it's not necessary. The whites NEVER get whiter than a good course of clipping, Quik Silver and baby powder! (Note: you can do this to an entire body, or to any white marking on the body, but it does require a lot of baby powder!)

If possible, wrapping and blanketing is always your best option before a show day. White legs stay much cleaner by default when they have wraps on!

Sunday, October 9, 2011

Back from KY! :)

Back from the land of ponies that is more commonly known as Kentucky... :) Had a good time, though I'd like to have done less working and more sight seeing! It's gorgeous down there. I highly recommend going for a visit if you're a horse person or not. I'm about to go see Digby but I did get a text earlier in the week that he is 75% better, off bute and going back out in his mini pen but still lame. Such is life, I suppose...

I've got three potential "homes" for Digby lined up that all seem to be ok. I haven't seen any of them in person but they were all recommended by great people so hopefully one of them will be ok for me to keep him there. I'm still hoping for a miracle but I honestly think at this point, financially and mentally, it's best for both of us even if he does become sound in the next two weeks that he should just go live out for 6 months to a year with friends and be a horse. It's not the end of the world. He'd certainly be happy just hanging out and eating all day!

Again, if anyone knows of a place that meets the requirements in my last post, please let me know! Thanks. Hope everyone had a good week while I was away! Expect more frequent posts now and a Grooming Tip Tuesday this week!

Wednesday, September 28, 2011

Quick update!

Digby is chilling in his stall, ready to be bored for the next 5 days while I'm packing to go to Kentucky for the next 10. I spoke with the barn manager and the main trainer to let them know where I'm going to be, the dates I'll be gone, what to do in an emergency in case they can't reach me. It feels good to have plans. I also spoke to the main trainer about the dreaded "what if he doesn't get better?" topic. We seem to be on the same page. I've figured out what the problem is, given him time off, and done some treatments to help fix the problem.... with limited success. There are certainly other things to try and do but realistically, he was free and I don't make a lot of money with a barn job. I can't validate spending much more money on a horse that was free. I'm secretly hoping that he blows out a giant abscess while I'm gone, but my gut feeling says not happening since he was back sore in the days before we went lame. We chit chatted about it for a bit and both decided it was a good idea that if he wasn't sound by the end of the month (October) that I would move him. Sigh... I dislike this idea greatly as I LOVE where we are so much but I'm not sure what else there is to do. I will certainly still ride where I am but I can't afford to keep a lame horse there. It's too expensive. The barn manager and main trainer both know that and are very supportive about it. I'm going to start searching for a field to put him in for around 6 months to a year.

Requirements:

  • A large field with friends (at least two other horses/ponies. Digby likes lots of friends)
  • Grass to eat, not just dirt/mud
  • Good fencing (please, not a ton of broken fence boards or unsafe fencing!)
  • Cheap (yeah... enough said. At least as cheap as possible)
  • Doesn't need indoor, outdoor or trails
  • NEEDS A GOOD, CARING OWNER (example, owner of property cannot be an idiot who has no idea what colic is, or what needs the vet called out vs what doesn't, or doesn't care enough to water and feed the horses every day)
  • Preferably close to my house or work but I'm willing to drive further if it's a truly awesome place
Anyone know of anything? Again, I DO NOT want to move him. I'm praying on my hands and knees he gets sound and stays sound. But he's miserable inside on stall rest and I'm miserable that he's miserable. If he's unsound when I get back from Kentucky, I'm just going to find a field that meets the above requirements and give him at least 6 months off to let him play with friends, be a horse and then think about what the next step is. :(

Tuesday, September 27, 2011

Grooming Tip Tuesday - Basic Grooming Procedure

I went over all the grooming tools last week. This week I'm going to describe a basic grooming. I've found this is best after exercise, when the horse is relaxed and a little tired. If you're riding the horse, I pull him out of his stall and start with light brushing. I just get the majority of the dirt off with a plain black rubber curry followed up by a hard brush in the areas that will be affected by tack or leg protection. After the ride when the horse is fully cooled, put the horse back in his stall and let him hang out, chew on some hay and get a drink while you clean tack and put everything away.

With yearlings to start, I use a mane and tail brush. We brush our yearling manes and tails every day and they are kept completely tangle free. On a regular horse, I start with the curry comb. This is probably the most important step to getting your horse clean and shiny. Currying loosens up all the dirt and dander and gives the horse a nice massage. I tend to use a lot of different curries for different purposes. I generally start with a black rubber curry type and use it in a circular or side to side motion all over the horses body. It depends on the horse though. Some horses need softer curries, while others can tolerate hard curries. Always use a rubber mitt or special face curry on the legs or face. If the horse is extra sweaty and you're unable to bathe or hose off, using wintergreen rubbing alcohol on a towel will remove all the dirt from that area. I try not to use alcohol regularly because I feel like it would dry out the coat. If the sweat has dried already, using one of the plastic Shed Flowers in a circular motion works well. If the horse is shedding a lot, the Grooma Grooma can be used now to lift all the loose hair off. In certain severe circumstances, I will use a dry microfiber or hand towel after currying. It helps pick up a lot of the gross dirt and dander you just lifted that sometimes just refuses to be brushed off the coat any other way. Curries also need to be check every few weeks or months depending on how many you groom a day to make sure the rubber has not worn down too far. A curry that is worn will not clean nearly as effectively.

Next, use a hard/dandy brush. Grooming is a vigorous process! When using the hard brush, use short, flicking strokes. There should be dirt flying off your horse. If it isn't, you either didn't curry enough to lift the dirt or you aren't brushing hard enough. Use the hard brush in the direction of the hair growth all over the body. Keep listening to your horse because some tolerate this better than others. Digby hates being hard brushed but most of the yearlings I groom actually seem to enjoy this part. Use the hard brush on legs and face if the horse tolerates it but with lighter strokes then on the body. Like I said before, don't forget key areas like the elbows, pasterns and base of mane.

Next, use a body brush in the direction of the hair growth. This is a very important step. This brush will pick up all the dander and dirt that was lifted by the curry and what's left over from the hard brush. Your brush WILL get dirty quickly if you're grooming correctly so make sure you clean it by wiping it on a towel or using a metal curry every few strokes. This brush can be used on any body part, including the legs and face. I try to avoid using it on the legs because they tend to get pretty clean with the hard brush only. The body brush is also good for that oh so hard to banish dust/dirt on the top of their hindquarters. If you need to keep your grooming tools budget to a minimum, buying a high quality body brush will benefit you best in the long run out of any other grooming tool.

Use a sponge, warm damp towel or baby wipes next to clean out ears, nose and around the eyes. I occasionally use a baby wipe to clean their bridle path if it just didn't seem to get clean while brushing. Use another towel or sponge to clean behind the tail and near the sheath or udder.

I generally will use the mane and tail brush now. I don't brush out the tails on riding horses often. I think leaving them alone tends to make them the thickest and longest. I will brush out forelocks and manes though. Use a silicone spray (Show Sheen, etc) to detangle if you do not have time to pick out the knots by hand. Whatever method you use, you need to be careful not to break hairs. Manes and tails take a looong time to grow in! After that, I hoof pick. I won't go into details about hoof picking because it is fairly straight forward. Refer to the USPC Manual if you have questions about hoof picking.

As a finishing touch, I rub the horse down with a hand towel. You can also use your hands as the oils from your skin help the horses coat. I use white towels so I can see if there was any dirt left. I do not necessarily use the same towel on the same horse every day. When it's dirty, I launder it. I know people who use the same towel after every grooming on the same horse, every day. The towel helps distribute the oils back onto the coat. It definitely works but I think using a new, clean towel works fine as well. Use the towel in circular motions, ending with brushing the hair in the correct direction. Rub the horse for as long as you have time, as this toweling really helps get them shiny.

That's all for this week! If you have any questions or comments, please leave them for me! I'll be gone for work until the 8th so there won't be a grooming tip tuesday next week, nor will you be hearing any Digby updates. :( I promise to update you as soon as I get back!